Day 3: Akka

Today was a very busy day! If you're just here for the photos, here they are: Day 3 Photos.

Wow. Where to begin? We met at the PRC and boarded a bus for Akka. We are re-tracing the steps of Baha'u'llah in Akka, albeit a little out of order. The short version is that Baha'u'llah was exiled from Baghdad to Constantinople, Adrianople, to the prison fortress city of Akka, and ultimately to Bahji, where He died in 1892. (Here's a rundown on important locations to the Baha'i Faith.)



First we went to the House of 'Abbud, which is actually two houses where Baha'u'llah and His family lived for a time after their release from the actual prison in Akka. It's right by the water, but the neighborhood is a noisy, crowded, run-down Arab enclave. The House of 'Abbud really stands out because of its nice fresh blue-and-white paint. We entered the property and found ourselves in this beautiful open-air courtyard, where we were served tea and cookies by two lovely Baha'i ladies.

Upstairs, we had the honor of visiting the actual rooms where Baha'u'llah lived. Many important tablets including the Fire Tablet and the Kitab-i-Aqdas (the Book of Laws) were revealed in the first room we visited. Mary Lou was excited to hear about the Fire Tablet, because she had recited it yesterday at the Shrine of Baha'u'llah. The rooms in the first house were furnished and decorated by Shoghi Effendi, whose love for the American Baha'is was apparent in the many photos of the U.S. Baha'i House of Worship and early American Baha'i conventions. There were also many framed maps and beautiful pieces of Persian and Arabic calligraphy. One of the rooms was that in which 'Abdul-Baha and his wife were married.

The second house, the actual House of 'Abbud, was significantly larger and grander. In this house we were also able to enter the Beloved Beauty's room. His actual bedding was on the floor, and one of his headdresses was placed on a sofa where He used to sit. Mary Lou had the opportunity to sit beside that sofa, in the position of one sitting at Baha'u'llah's feet. It was quite a moment. We also were able to see the rooms of other family members, including the Greatest Holy Leaf and her mother, Baha'u'llah's wife Navvab.



After visiting the house, we went to the actual prison, where Baha'u'llah was brought on His arrival in Akka. The area in which Baha'u'llah was, we understand, recently re-opened after having been closed for several years for refurbishing. We were actually rather surprised to see a bright area with fresh plaster, lots of windows, spacious rooms and a beautiful new stone floor. "Gee!" we thought. "This isn't that bad for a prison!"

Well... we soon changed our minds when we heard the sad story. In Baha'u'llah's time, the floors were dirt. And many, many friends and family members were crowded into those rooms without adequate food or water. Early in their captivity, illness struck the party and three of the friends passed away. But even worse tragedy was in store, when Baha'u'llah's beloved younger son, Mirza Mihdi (the Purest Branch), fell to his death from an open skylight on the roof.



The scene of this tragedy has been beautifully restored (above). After our guide told the tale, there was absolutely not a dry eye in the house. One of the pilgrims read a prayer and could hardly get through it because of his strong emotions. So sad. *Sigh*

After a quick stop to view the Ocean Gate and the Land Gate, the only two entrances to Akka at the time, we went back to the beautiful Bahji Visitors' Center for lunch. Here's another photo of that lovely garden.



Next we went to the Garden of Ridvan, so named by Baha'u'llah because it provided a heavenly place of respite in his exile. (Not to be confused with the Garden in which He declared His mission before leaving Baghdad.) That's an amazing story, but it's late and we're not gonna have time to post it tonight. But we promise it'll be worth the wait.

Finally, after a quick stop at the hotel we returned to the International Teaching Center for a meeting with the International Teaching Committee. Here we are, tired but happy. Thanks for stopping by.